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2010-05-24

God or Opera? Are they the same?

Yesterday was pentecost sunday. I had purchased a ticket to the 11 AM performance at the opera, so I went to Budapest, taking the 7:20 train and goetting into the Keleti station just after 8:30. The walk from the station to the opera house leads past the little Anglican (CofE) chapel which I have visited a couple of times, so I decided to go bz and say hello. Services start at 10:30, so I thought someone might be there by 9:15 or so. I parked on a bench at a nearby park to wait for someone to show up, and in the meantime I reviewed and commented on the exercises that students had written in class last week.

By 9:10 they had opened up, so I went on in to say hello. Overpowering smell of mold and dank---a pipe had burst in the wall and they were in he process of drying out. It will take a long time; they are in the basement of a standard five-story building, and air circulation is pretty nil.

I made chit chat, wound up borrowing three books from their exchange-a-book library, and left at 10. On the way to the opera I stopped in at KFC for an early lunch, knowing the opera would not conclude till around 2 pm.

So here we are at the opera house. For 4000 forint ($20) I have what is arguably the best seat in the house... just above and to the left of the royal box. The orchestra pit has been reduced to 50% of its normal size. At stage left an extension covers the pit and will allow the singers to come practically into the audience. The chamber orchestra has two harpsichords, about 4 winds, about a dozen strings.

By 11 am most of the place is occupied, the orchestra has tuned, we are waiting for the conductor. Then the concertmaster gives a little signal with his bow, and the overture starts--sans conductor. Hmm, I think, this is going to be one of those Who the Hell Needs a Conductor peformances. But I am wrong. After the opening section (larghetto, I suppose, if I had to choose a tempo) the conductor comes strolling down the aisle, steps over the barrrier between orchestra and the front row, and then suddenly we presto assai into a rolicing measure whose tempo is visually reinforced by the entrance of one of the players--a somewhat chunky, scruffy-bearded fellow in his mid twenties wearing loud middle-eastern colors and vaguely flowing pajama trousers, plus a pair of earphones, and he is strolling along, rocking to the beat of what he appears to be listening to--in this case, the baroque hip-hop of the orchestra.

As the overture continues he is joined by several others wearing similar garb, a kind of middle-eastern gangster rap crew, that show off to one another by doing break dancing, exaggerated gang signs, and the like. It takes me a few moments to figure out that that the others are the corps de ballet. Mr Chunky must be a singer, probably the comic bass of the opera.

Overture concludes. Now we get to the opening recitativ and aria and are introduced to Xerxes, warrior hero and king of Persia, who is in love with a sycamore tree and who sings Handel's Largo (it is actually largetto but never mind), "Ombra mai piu," an outpouring of his love for his leafy beloved. On stage we see the trunk of the tree, rising up about 30 feet into the proscenium. Xerxes finishes embracing the tree, rubbing it, caressing it, kissing it, and then climbs up into the tree, literally going inside the tree. (this could have been very outrageously sexual, fetish=like, but they didnt go that far). Then we see a sports car being driven by Mr Chunky, accompanied by Countertenor Niceguy who is Xerses' younger brother), come down a semicircular ramp. The car bangs into the tree, the tree shudders and then s l o w l y crashes to the ground. So much for the eternal love Xerxes has for his sycamore tree.

Next we are introduced to GF of Niceguy, who with her sister lives in a middle-eastern 4 story apartment building with external AC units. The lighting seems to suggest that GF and her sister are involved in a very ancient profession normally occupied by females. (I am not sure if that was the intention, but that's how I saw it.) Anyway, we get to meet her and the sister, and then Xerxes gets up from the fallen tree, sees the GF, and immediately is convinced that SHE is THE ONE FOR HIM, and next thing you know we have a triangle and Xerxes (he his the king, after all) uses his absolute authority to banish his brother Mr. Niceguy so he can have GF to himself.

Sister of GF is all for helping Xerxes get his hands on GF, because Sister wants Niceguy. Then there is Jilted Lover, the mezzo, whom Xerxes neglected to pursue his botanical interests. Jilted shows up bearing gasoline cans and dynamite, intent on being a suicide and blowing up Xerxes' palace in the process. Then there is a letter, from Niceguy to GF, but somehow it gets to Sister, who claims (a( it is is addressed to her, (b) and Mr. Niceguy no longer is in love with GF, so (c) GF had better move along and hitch up with Xerxes.

GF resolves to remain true to Mr. Niceguy, despite Xerxes' rubbing the rejection letter into her face, Xerxes can't begin to understand how she can stay true, so he resolves to kill his brother to remove he last reason GF has for remaining true to him.

One more figure to round things out, the father of GF and Sister, a one-armed general, apparently the commander of Xerxes forces. When we first see him he stands tall and straight, he is just missing the one arm.. Later he has a crutch , which he uses as he joins the dancers , who are all dressed in desert camouflage outfits. Still later he has an eyepatch. In the final scene he is confined to a wheelchair.

Xerxes at various times shows up in a sports car, a tank, an airplane, (He throws bombs out of his plane; as they hit the ground, flashes and smoke erupt on stage, "killing" the soldier-dancers below.) and a battleship. There is a shark that swallows Mr. Chunky and drags him beneath the waves. (Chunky later emerges from the water wearing snorkel gear and fins.) And there are about forty gaudy plastic carnival rabbit figures, each about 2' tall, that are Xerxes' attempts to win the favors of GF, who will have none of them, and who enlists her friends to pile them into shopping carts and take them to the ocean and throw them away.

It is all very busy, not necessarily coherent, at least not that I could figure out, but then I don't know the text well enough to comment with any authority. Nevertheless, up until the last scene I was engaged, engrossed, absorbed. Several of the arias were quite well done. The countertenor (Mr Niceguy = Birta Gabor ) was especially good, with one long slow aria of despair and desperation that was quite affecting, and one of anger and revenge that blazed with brilliance.

Then there was the finale.

Now I understand a bit better why there was a deus ex machina in ancient comedy. There is none in Xerxes, but in this performance, as the chorus begain to sing of calm and reason and order being restored and everything being put into its proper place, a subtle rain of glittering flakes started to fall on the singers. What had been intellectual and aesthetic for me suddenly turned emotional. I was transformed for a moment, moved to a different place.

Of course it was a trick, stagecraft, calculation, and all that. But if all I had seen was the finale, I would not have had the same reaction. It is because I had "worked through" the opera, had gone on the journey with the singers and the orchestra and the dancers, that it had the effect on me.

Last night I did a Google search to see if I could find any kind of review of this production. Nothing in English. Nothing from any Hungarian newspapers. I did find a personal blog written in Hungarian, and I used the Google translation tool to see what was being said. In about two pages of comment the writer said that the production made no sense visually (I am not sure I agree, there are things that I found quite appropriate), but that the music was great.

I agree the music was great. I even did something I have never done before. I found the email address of the countertenor (contact@mrniceguy.hu) and actually sent him a fan letter. My very first.






2010-05-03

Vienna. DAYS 1 and 2


DAY 1

Ok
You cant get there from here
And
Life is like a box of chocolates (TY forrest gump)

So no, you cannot buy a train ticket from Tata to Vienna
First you must go to Gyor or Tatabanya
Then you leave your train and go to the INTERNATIONAL ticket office
(which we do not have in Tata)
And buy your ticket there
Never mind that the train to gyor continues on to Vienna after only a five minute stop
And you don’t have time to buy a ticket and get back on the same train
And will have to wait an hour or two

And no you cant buy international tickets on the web
Has to be done in person
(Or I guess thru a travel agency)

So WTH
I am on vacation
don’t have to be anywhere really
Well
I told the guy in Vienna I would arrive around noon
And it is 2 and I am still in gyor
About 90 min from Vienna
But WTH

And the train takes me to Vienna
I arrive at the Suedbahnhof,
Not the Westbahnhof
So have to take streetcar to the Wbhf

I find Mariahilferstrasse
but I don’t find Millergasse
Like it was on the map on the internet

(stupid printer failed me at home, could not bring documents with me
Just my handwritten notes)
And finally ask a couple out for a stroll

Oh I went the wrong way on Mariahilferstrasse
Back he way I came
ok yes, now I am ok
Here is Millergasse
Yes here is Nr. 32
Here is bell for suite #10
B u tttttttttttttt…..
Strange name on door.. Hofer,, Nor Erzmann
And…
No one answers
P U N T go to KFC around the corner on main drag
No wireless
Go to McDonalds across the street
Yes wireless
Send message to guy I’m supposed to be renting room from

I AM HERE WHERE ARE YOU

Cool heels wait go back and ring doorbell
Still no answer

Ok now what
Go to Westbahnhof find info office
Ask Say, any recommendations on an inexpensive place to stay

--Well, there’s this place about 8 blocks away

And I go there
And by golly I get a room for the night
32 euro $43
And it works fine


Very GERMAN tile floor and walls
About 7’ x 12 tile floors and a sink

Power outlet over sink
So I can plug in my CPAP and recharge the PC

I shower, take a brief nap, and then around 7 pm I head out
On foot, waking toward the inner city

Stop at an internet café.. Check stuff..
Not much, keep going
Reach the museum area.. Check out opening time prices .. So on
Keep walking
And now twilight is setting in
And the buildings are starting to glow in the dusk

And gosh they are just magically beautiful
So grand so serene,
And they have bin cleaned up a lot since I last saw them
over 40 years go

What I remember from then was dirt grey grime dark black
And now it is white cream clean golden, whatever it is, it sparkles

LITERALLY

Because not only are they cleaned up, they have had new exterior lighting installed
And now the buildings are not only glowing from the twilight
With the sky deep blue around them
They are glinting from the spotlights
And off in the distance the city hall
Looks like it stepped right out of a disney animation

It is a real Kincaide City
(Or however he spells it)
Not one of his fakeries

This thing just won’t stop
Wedding cake architecture, but far from Stalinist
Late 19th century Hapsburgian

Then suddenly I get really tired
I HAVE to crash
And it is starting to rain
But where is the god dam metro stop
Ah here is the streetcar stop with a map.. Ok yes I see here is the National Theater.. Yes
And then behind it and over two streets.. Ok Herrenstrasse and then the Metro
Ok
But of course the streets change names once you are on them and I get confused
So I finally head toward some traffic.. Ah there is a station
And I buy a 24HR ticket, which I plan to use all the next day
(and actually do, but that is for a later posting)
A N Y W A Y…. I take the metro back to the Westbahnhof
Go into the 5am-12PM grocery store, and buy
a beer and a bar of chocolate, an apple, two bananas
Take them back to my hotel room
(or cubbyhole)
And 20 minutes later I start to feel my legs cramp up from all the walking.
But I am drifting off to sleep.. Thing will just have to work themselves out over night.

………………………………......................................
DAY 2
============
so i get up at 7 and have breakfast. just rolls and marmelade, and coffee with warm milk. it was tasty, and the coffee was good (maybe it was just the warm milk), but it wasnt really enough. So I headed out not too late after 8 am, intending to use well the 24 hour ticket i had bought the previous evening. Off I head to the city center, figuring to emerge from the metro around the Stephansplatz, where I recall the big cathedral was located. Well I do emerge, and there the place is, pretty big building, i would put it a bit larger than the college church, and of course it dwarfs anything around it, and there are people streaming inside, so i figure why not, and almost as soon as i enter the doors the bells start to bong, and these are no chinky little clinkers, let me tell you, these are big boomers, and they keep right on booming and i look at my watch and it is 8: 55, so mass must be starting at 9, and I am puzzled because there is a front section roped off, but it is just ordinary folk up there, families and kids and what have you, not like a VIP section, but i am not going to crash the party without knowing what the party is, so i get a seat kind of close and look at the program, 5th sunday after Easter, routine stuff, and then there are all these flashbulbs going off and i am a bit ticked at the gall of people to be taking photos during the service, but there is this bustling and moving around by people, then there is a cling cling of a small bell and people start to stand up and boy does that organ really fill the place up, huge big full throat of a prelude, sort of french like, not bach or anything, and i can tell he (organists tend to be male) is just vamping it up big and then people are looking back toward the entrance, and no i don´t do things like that i keep looking straight ahead, and in a couple of minutes the procession has reached me, the processional cross, the paschal candle, altar boys, then a whole slew of 8-10 year olds, the boys wearing white shirts and ties, the girls in white dresses with little flower coronets and i say to myself, oh, ok, this is a first communion sunday, and so it was, with all the hymns (except for the last one) being contemporary guitar sing-along stuff, with the words changed to make things rhyme...
glory to god (clap clap)
glory to you (clap clap)
when i am sad (clap clap)
you know what to do .. well, not THAT bad but you get the idea
AAAAAAAANYWAY.......
the nice thing was that i could understand everything
even knew some of the stuff by heart
(including the lyrics of the last hymn, which i remembered from attending church in Germany
back in the 70s)
and could understand every word of the prayers
the sermon
the announcements
what a welcome change from hungary

for a big central cathedral with cardinal and all that this was a remarkably informal friendly service with lots of emphasis on family and kids

well of course it WAS first communion
but even then

little touches i remember..... the cathedral has a conrol booth for video and lighting and sound
very neatly set into an alcove off to the side, up about 18 feet

large monitors show the main altar for those who are seated behind pillars

gothic church, with incongruous baroque altars and paintings scattered around
but hey, their cathedral, they get to choose the furniture

just bread for communion, but at least this is not stick it on your tongue country


well that takes me up to about 11 am. the rest of the day is travel around on metro and streetcar and just soak it in.. off to the other side of the danube where the industrial complex is building sleek new skyscrapers and hotels and conference centers and tech palaces

and thru the residential areas
and as i people watch i see how international this town is
only bout 3-40% speaking german
the rest-- czech, russian, turkish, farsi, who knows what....

in industry city was another church, very modern, i saw several families coming out after mass who seemed to be east indian, i go inside look around, and see that about 30% of the masses scheduled are in English.

I continue my streetcar wanderings, then decide to switch to the metro and take it out to the end station. After a few stops it comes out from the tunnels and runs along an elevated section, which looks like it dates from the late `19th century. Then suddenly we are at a modern station with porthole windows, and i see outside them something that HAS to be HUNDERTWASSER, i mean, nobody else does stuff like this>

But the metro is moving, so i go to the next station, turn around, go back and then go explore. What IS this place ?




Fernwa"rme... Distance Heating.. Some kind of heating plant, which then transfers the heat to buildings/apartment blocks. Hmm. Like the steam tunnels in downtown St. Louis. OK, I understand that.

So it is this combination of whimsical and catchy with serious industrial, i guess. Whatever it is, it is neat. And unmistakably Hundertwasser.


So I continue my stroll. At the Stadtpark I see some beautiful chestnuts in bloom, people just relaxing and enjoying the day.


Eventually i tire out and head back toward the Westbahnhof, this time using the metro. I stop at the McDonalds and check email, and find to my consternation that the guy who was going to rent me a room has responded, but it is too late, i have already booked my room at the pension for 3 nights. So I send a message about later in the week, if that is possible.

Back for a brief nap a the hotel room, then I head out again just to explore, didn't really do that much, went back and looked at the lights and the traffic and the buildings and all, got turned around a couple of times, bought gyro to go, which comes in a box like chinese food, has rice, the gyro meat, onions and lettuce and yoghurt with herbs. Wash it down with a can of beer, I am fine. I am tired. My 24 hr transport card expires at 9:21, it is now 8:50, i make it back to my station at about 9:10, think ... well, i could ride another stop and walk back, no, stupid, i'm tired, i want to go to sleep, and I do. Deeply.